Insurance

Does Your Credit Score Affect Car Insurance? In Most States, More Than Your Driving

Same car, same clean record, about $1,550 a year apart: how credit-based insurance scores work and where you have leverage.

Letter tiles spelling CREDIT on a table, with a sticky note reading “68% more?”.
Photo by Markus Winkler on Unsplash

Picture two neighbors. Same age, same street, same eight-year-old SUV, and neither has had a ticket or a claim. One pays about $2,280 a year for full coverage. The other pays about $3,830.

What separates them isn’t on the road. It’s in their credit files. Drivers with poor credit were paying an average of 68.2% more for full coverage than drivers with good credit when LendingTree pulled rate data in June 2026. For the same car and the same record, that’s roughly $1,550 a year. Don’t read too much into the exact dollars, though. The study’s sample driver is a 30-year-old man with a clean record and a 2018 Honda CR-V, and you’re probably not him.

MoneyGeek ran its own numbers in September 2026, using a slightly different comparison: excellent credit versus poor, not good versus poor. Across the 46 states that allow the practice plus D.C., it put that gap at $2,102 a year. It also found that in most of those states the credit penalty is bigger than the surcharge after a DUI conviction (roughly $1,200 to $2,600 a year, by MoneyGeek’s count).

That’s the part drivers find hardest to swallow. Someone with a perfect driving record and a rough credit history can pay more than someone with good credit and a drunk-driving conviction. It’s legal in most of the country, too. FICO estimates, in a figure the NAIC repeats, that about 95% of auto insurers use credit-based insurance scores where the law allows them.

68% more: the average premium gap in LendingTree’s study. Same driver profile, same car, same clean record. Good credit averaged $2,277 a year for full coverage, poor credit $3,831. Source: LendingTree analysis of Quadrant Information Services data, June 2026.

What are insurers actually scoring?

Not the FICO or VantageScore number in your banking app. Insurers use a credit-based insurance score, built from the same credit reports but designed to predict something else: how likely you are to file claims, rather than how likely you are to repay a loan. Same raw data, different question.

The inputs will sound familiar. Payment history, how much of your available credit you’re using, how long your accounts have been open, how often you’ve applied for new credit and the mix of account types all feed in. Income, job and bank balances aren’t in a credit report, so they aren’t in the score.

Insurers defend the practice with data. In a 2007 report to Congress, the Federal Trade Commission concluded that these scores are effective predictors of risk under auto policies, meaning that, as a group, people with lower scores filed more claims or costlier ones than people with higher scores. The same report found the scores are distributed differently across racial and ethnic groups, which is a big part of why consumer advocates and some regulators want them gone.

You don’t have to settle that argument to deal with your own bill. What matters is that many companies recalculate the score at renewal, that it can move your price with no change in how you drive, and that the insurer doesn’t have to tell you the score itself.

Say a retired couple puts a $9,000 roof repair on a credit card and pays it down over a year. They’ve never missed a payment, and their driving hasn’t changed. Then the statement posts. The card sits close to its limit, their credit usage jumps, and the insurance score built from that file drops. At the next renewal their premium can go up, and the letter won’t mention the roof.

Where it’s banned or limited

It’s state law, and it varies.

State rule Where What it means for you
Credit may not be used to set auto rates California, Hawaii, Massachusetts, Michigan Your credit file shouldn’t affect your car insurance price
Credit use is limited in specific ways A number of states, including Maryland and Oregon Some bar using credit to raise your premium at renewal, or to cancel or refuse to renew
Credit allowed with consumer protections Most other states Usually can’t be the sole reason to deny, cancel or raise rates; notice required

In the LendingTree data, the four states that ban it showed a 0% difference between good and poor credit. At the other end, poor credit more than doubled the premium in six places, led by Washington, D.C., Virginia and New York.

The list isn’t frozen. MoneyGeek counted six states with 2026 bills to ban or restrict the practice, including Illinois and New York. If you live in one of them, check your state insurance department’s site for the current rule.

Age makes it worse. LendingTree found that 80-year-old drivers saw the largest percentage jump for poor credit, 87%, with the average premium in its sample going from $2,625 to $4,910. For a retiree on a fixed income who’s carrying a card balance after a hospital bill, a new roof or a spouse’s funeral, and who hasn’t had a ticket in decades, that’s a rough thing to find on a renewal notice.

So what can you do about it? In most states you can’t switch the scoring off. You can find out whether it hit you, fix what’s wrong in the file and look for insurers that weigh it less. Those are three separate jobs, and the first one starts with a piece of mail most people toss.

Continued

The notice you’re entitled to

Under the federal Fair Credit Reporting Act, if an insurer charges you more because of something in a consumer report (the law’s term that covers your credit report), that’s an adverse action. The FTC’s guidance for insurers says it counts even when the report was only part of the reason, and a higher premium is one of its examples.

The insurer then has to send you a notice that includes:

  • the name, address and phone number of the credit bureau that supplied the report;
  • a statement that the bureau didn’t make the decision and can’t explain it;
  • your right to a free copy of that report if you ask within 60 days, and your right to dispute anything inaccurate.

These notices often arrive as a separate, dull-looking page tucked into a new policy or renewal packet. If you got one, credit affected your price. Not sure? Insurers sort drivers into price tiers, so call and ask: “Was a credit-based insurance score used to rate my policy, and did it put me in anything less than your best tier?” They should be able to answer.

Steps that can change the number

  1. Pull all three credit reports. They’re free every week at AnnualCreditReport.com or by phone at 1-877-322-8228, the only source authorized by federal law. You don’t need to pay for a report or a score for this step.
  2. Look for errors insurers would care about. Late payments that were really on time, accounts that aren’t yours, a paid collection still showing a balance, a wrong credit limit that makes your usage look high.
  3. Dispute errors in writing with the bureau and with the company that reported them. Include copies of your proof. The bureau has to investigate.
  4. Pay down revolving balances (credit cards and other debts you carry month to month) where you can. Credit usage is recalculated every month, which makes it the fastest-moving part of any credit score.
  5. Set every bill to autopay for at least the minimum. Payment history carries the most weight, and a single 30-day late mark can stay on your report for up to seven years.
  6. Hold off on opening several new accounts in the months before renewal.
  7. Ask your insurer to re-run your score. Many companies re-score only at renewal, and some only when you ask. If your credit has improved since you bought the policy, request a re-rate, but first ask whether a lower score on the re-check could raise your premium. In some states it can’t.
  8. Ask about a life-event exception. Many states require insurers to reconsider credit-based rating after events like a serious illness, a death in the immediate family, divorce, job loss or identity theft. You usually have to ask in writing.

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Getting insurance quotes won’t hurt your credit, by the way. Insurers make what the bureaus call a soft inquiry, which lenders don’t see and scoring models ignore.

Should you pay for credit monitoring or repair?

A notice like that sends a lot of people looking for help with their credit, so it’s worth being plain about what each kind of service does.

You can check your credit score free in lots of places, including most card issuers and bank apps. A free score is fine for tracking direction. It won’t match the insurance score, but the two tend to move together.

Credit monitoring pings you when something new lands on your file. If you’ve been through identity theft, or a data breach notice just showed up in the mail, that alert is worth having. Plenty of monitoring is free. The paid versions mostly tack on identity theft insurance and more frequent updates, so look at what’s actually included before you take on another monthly fee.

A credit repair company files disputes on your behalf, for a fee. It can’t legally remove accurate negative information, and federal law bars them from charging you before the work is done. Everything it does, you could do yourself for free. Some people would still rather pay someone. If that’s you, read the FTC’s rules first, then compare a few services on price and on how easy they are to cancel.

Sometimes the file is accurate and the trouble is simply debt. In that case I’d skip the repair companies and call a nonprofit credit counseling agency. Before you share a single account number, though, find out whether it really is a nonprofit, what it charges and what it offers.

Shopping for insurance when credit is the problem

Insurers don’t weigh credit equally, and for anyone who can’t fix their file quickly, that’s the most useful fact in this article. Rate studies that break results out by company show wide differences in how hard each one penalizes poor credit. The rankings shift by state and by driver, though, so the only reliable test is a quote on your own file.

That makes shopping around worth more to you than to the neighbor with excellent credit, as long as you do it carefully.

  • Four or five quotes is a good target. Include a regional insurer or two, and get at least one quote through an independent agent. Tell the agent straight out that your credit is the weak spot; good ones often know which of their carriers go easier on it.
  • Identical coverage on every quote. Same limits, same deductible, same drivers, or the cheapest number on the table means nothing.
  • Usage-based and pay-per-mile programs. These price you on your actual driving, how much and how carefully. If most of your trips are to the store and back, that can win back part of a credit penalty. Yes, they collect driving data. Read the privacy terms before you sign up.
  • Non-credit discounts still count. A defensive driving course, bundling policies, paying the year in full, low mileage, the safety features on your car. Ask about each one by name.
  • Keep the old policy until the new one starts. A gap in coverage gets rated on its own. It can cost you more than the credit penalty does.
  • Once your credit improves, shop again. A 40-point gain won’t help much until somebody re-scores you. I’d put a reminder on the calendar a month before each renewal.

Live in a state that limits credit use, and think your insurer broke the rule? Your state insurance department takes complaints. The NAIC’s directory of every state department will point you to yours, and the complaint form is on that department’s website.

Mistakes that keep the price high

Assuming a clean driving record is enough. In most states it’s one factor among many, and it isn’t always the heaviest.

Tossing the adverse action notice. It names the bureau whose file was used and opens a 60-day window for a free report from that bureau.

Paying for a score before you’ve checked the reports. Errors live in the reports, and the reports are free.

Closing old credit cards to “clean up.” That shortens your credit history and raises your usage ratio, which can push both kinds of score the wrong way.

Staying with one insurer out of habit after your credit has changed. It cuts both ways: if your score went up, the company that priced you on the old file may not re-score you unless you ask.

This week, pull the three reports. Then call your insurer and ask whether a credit-based score set your tier.

A mechanical car odometer, close up, with a sticky note reading “Hard braking?”. Read nextIs Your Car Reporting Your Driving to Insurers? How to Check and Opt Out A white house with a front porch among autumn trees, with a sticky note reading “No claims?”. Read nextWhy Your Home Insurance Went Up With No Claims — and 7 Ways to Push It Back Down

About the author

Ray Castellano

Pen name · Home, Auto & Money

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Edited by
The Moneystretching editorial team. A human editor checks every figure, date and rule against the sources before an article is published. How we check articles
Sources
NAIC, FTC (Fair Credit Reporting Act guidance, 2007 report to Congress), AnnualCreditReport.com, LendingTree and MoneyGeek 2026 rate studies. Full list with links

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Updated Sep 29, 2026 · Reviewed against NAIC, FTC (Fair Credit Reporting Act guidance, 2007 report to Congress), AnnualCreditReport.com, LendingTree and MoneyGeek 2026 rate studies

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This article is general information, not financial, legal, tax, insurance or medical advice, and it is not a substitute for the advice of an attorney.